Petrochemicals are chemical compounds derived from petroleum and natural gas. These substances are the building blocks for various industrial and consumer products, including plastics, solvents, and synthetic additives. In the cosmetics and personal care industry, petrochemicals serve as emollients, surfactants, preservatives, and texturizing agents.
The production of petrochemicals begins with the refining of crude oil or natural gas. These raw materials undergo a series of chemical processes, including distillation, cracking, and polymerization, to produce basic petrochemical compounds such as ethylene, propylene, and benzene. These primary chemicals are then further processed into derivatives, including:
Mineral oil and petroleum jelly – Derived from the distillation of crude oil, these substances are purified and used as occlusive agents in skincare.
Paraffin wax – A byproduct of petroleum refining, often used in lip balms and moisturizers.
Silicones (e.g., dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane) – Synthesized from petrochemical feedstocks to create smooth, spreadable formulations.
PEGs (Polyethylene Glycols) – Produced from ethylene oxide, PEG compounds function as emulsifiers, thickeners, and penetration enhancers.
Synthetic fragrances – Many artificial fragrances in cosmetics are derived from petrochemical sources.
Despite their widespread use, the refining and processing of petrochemicals involve potential contaminants such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), 1,4-dioxane, and residual solvents, some of which are under regulatory scrutiny due to their potential health concerns.
Petrochemical-derived ingredients offer several functional benefits that make them attractive to cosmetic manufacturers:
Moisturization and Barrier Protection – Ingredients like mineral oil and petroleum jelly form an occlusive layer on the skin, preventing water loss.
Texture and Spreadability – Silicones provide a silky, smooth finish to creams and serums, making formulations feel luxurious.
Emulsification and Stability – PEG compounds help blend oil- and water-based ingredients, ensuring a uniform product texture.
Cost-Effectiveness – Petrochemical derivatives are often cheaper than their natural counterparts, allowing mass production of affordable skincare products.
Extended Shelf Life – Some petrochemicals, such as synthetic preservatives, help prevent microbial growth and oxidation, prolonging product usability.
While these benefits contribute to product performance and longevity, the widespread use of petrochemicals raises concerns regarding their effects on human health and the environment.
While many petrochemical-derived ingredients are considered non-irritating, they can have varying effects on different skin types:
Comedogenicity – Occlusive ingredients like mineral oil and petroleum jelly may trap dirt and bacteria, potentially leading to clogged pores and breakouts in acne-prone individuals.
Skin Sensitivity – Some PEG compounds and synthetic fragrances may cause irritation, particularly in individuals with sensitive or reactive skin.
Bioaccumulation Concerns – Certain silicones, such as cyclic silicones (e.g., cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane), have raised concerns regarding their persistence in the body and environment.
Although regulatory bodies like the FDA and European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) approve many petrochemical ingredients for cosmetic use, concerns remain about potential contamination and long-term exposure effects:
Carcinogenic Contaminants – Unrefined petroleum-derived ingredients may contain PAHs, which have been linked to cancer.
1,4-Dioxane Presence – A byproduct of ethoxylation (a process used to make PEGs and certain surfactants), 1,4-dioxane is classified as a probable human carcinogen. While it can be removed during manufacturing, studies suggest trace amounts may remain in some finished products.
Endocrine Disruption – Some synthetic fragrances and certain plasticizers (e.g., phthalates, which are sometimes used in fragrances) have been associated with potential endocrine-disrupting effects, though further research is needed.
Beyond human health, petrochemical-derived ingredients contribute to environmental pollution:
Non-Biodegradability – Many silicones and synthetic polymers do not break down easily, leading to accumulation in waterways and soil.
Microplastic Formation – Certain emulsifiers and texturizers derived from petrochemicals may contribute to microplastic pollution when rinsed off.
Fossil Fuel Dependence – The reliance on petroleum-based ingredients perpetuates fossil fuel extraction and carbon emissions, contributing to environmental degradation.
Various international regulatory agencies oversee the safety of petrochemicals in cosmetics:
The U.S. FDA – Generally recognizes many petroleum-derived ingredients as safe (GRAS) but does not mandate pre-market testing for cosmetics.
The European Union (EU) – Enforces stricter regulations on cosmetic ingredients, banning or restricting certain petrochemical derivatives suspected of toxicity.
California Proposition 65 – Lists chemicals, including some found in cosmetics, that may pose health risks such as cancer or reproductive harm.
Clean Beauty Movement – Independent certification bodies (e.g., EWG, COSMOS, and Ecocert) set stricter standards, often avoiding or limiting petrochemical use in certified natural and organic skincare products.
Given the concerns surrounding petrochemical-derived ingredients, many brands are turning to natural and plant-based alternatives:
Botanical Oils and Butters – Jojoba oil, shea butter, and coconut oil provide occlusive and emollient properties similar to mineral oil and petroleum jelly.
Natural Emulsifiers and Thickeners – Ingredients like lecithin, beeswax, and xanthan gum replace PEG compounds in clean beauty formulations.
Eco-Friendly Preservatives – Plant-derived antimicrobial agents like radish root ferment and rosemary extract serve as alternatives to synthetic preservatives.
Biodegradable Silicones – Some companies are developing plant-based or biodegradable alternatives to conventional silicones.
Petrochemicals are deeply embedded in modern skincare formulations due to their functional benefits, affordability, and stability-enhancing properties. However, concerns regarding potential health effects, contamination risks, and environmental sustainability have driven scrutiny of their use. While regulatory bodies deem many petrochemical-derived ingredients safe, ongoing research and consumer demand for cleaner alternatives are reshaping the industry.
For those seeking to minimize petrochemical exposure, choosing certified natural or organic skincare brands and reading ingredient labels carefully can help navigate this complex landscape. As the clean beauty movement continues to evolve, innovation in plant-based and sustainable alternatives is likely to offer viable replacements, ensuring effective skincare without the reliance on fossil fuel-derived ingredients.